Every horse owner, at one time or another, questions whether they are using the right bit for their horse. Most of the time this question comes up when there is some type of problem, their horses is fighting the bit, tossing his head or there is just a lack of responsiveness, or in horseman's terms - no whoa. Changing bits really does have the potential to improve communication with your horse, but many riders don't take advantage of this because they lack the knowledge to know what type of bit to use to improve their situation.

Before talking about which bit to use you have to understand what a bit is supposed to do. The bit is a tool for communicating with the horse, not as a means of controlling them. To develop a well trained horse there needs to be open lines of communication from the rider's seat through the hands and then to the bit. Too often riders use their hands first and never reinforce it with their seat or leg. Serious riders will spend years developing soft, elastically yielding hands because when it comes right down to it, any bit is only as hard or soft as the hands holding the reins.

As for different types of western bits they can be loosely categorized in two groups: snaffle or curb. The snaffle can be straight or jointed but never has a shank and it works off of direct pressure. This means that the horse feels pound for pound the amount of force exerted by the rider. Different mouthpieces will apply pressure in different areas of the mouth, as a rule the snaffle is the least severe bit you can use.

The curb bit, on the other hand, comes in a variety of shapes and combinations but always relies upon the curb strap for part of its action. In addition, all curb bits have a shank which exaggerates the force exerted by the rider - the longer the shank, the greater potential for severity. Some curb bits are made with a port which gives tongue relief but can also be more severe (or sensitive, depending upon how you look at it) because it can also apply pressure to the roof of the mouth.

Knowing which bit will work best on your horse can be, well, a 'bit' confusing, to say the least. Don't worry, there really is no mystery or secret to it. Traditionally, finding a good match has been done by trial and error and it will probably always be done this way. That's not to say that you shouldn't put a lot of thought into it; on the contrary, there are numerous things to consider when choosing the right bit for your horse. Start with examining your horse's mouth; is the lower jaw wide or narrow? Is the tongue thick or thin? Is the roof deep or shallow? Are the bridle or 'wolf' teeth removed? All of these will influence how comfortably your horse will carry different types of bits.

Evaluating your horse's reaction to his current bit is also important. When you pull his nose to the side is he soft and yielding or does he brace against you? If the latter sounds like you then you should think about going back to the snaffle for awhile and teach them to give softly to pressure. The snaffle is also good for solving other problems like head tossing, gaping of the mouth and can help compensate for (or protect the horse from) a heavy-handed rider.

As a horse moves along in his training there is a definite progression of bits to use. Start in a smooth, jointed snaffle. If your horse is too pushy and leans on the smooth snaffle, go to a twisted wire snaffle - but keep in mind that any bit that is twisted (in the wrong hands), can permanently ruin the bars of a horse's mouth. Only when the horse is soft and supple in the snaffle and you can get them to flex at the poll should you introduce them to a curb bit with a short shank and jointed mouthpiece.

Some horses don't work well with the 'nutcracker' action of a single jointed snaffle but get along fine in a 'dog bone' which has two joints. A good transition bit to a solid mouthpiece is the Billy Allen. From here if you do need to advance to a curb bit with a port, be sure to start with the smallest rise and only increase the size if absolutely necessary. A jointed curb with a port (called a correction bit) works well if you have a stiff horse and, it's good to know that a leather curb strap is less severe than a chain strap. A lot of problems can be avoided by making sure the curb strap is properly adjusted, for most bits you want no more than two fingers between the curb and chin groove.

Where the bit rests in the mouth is just as important as what type you choose. Most bits should rest just at the corners of the horse's mouth, making light contact with the corners but not pulling them back beyond a slight crease. You don't want your horse to feel like the bit is pulling on his mouth all the time.

It usually takes a few rides with any new bit before you can tell if the horse is going to respond better to it. Be careful that you increase the severity gradually and always try a new bit in familiar surroundings. Acquiring bits, understanding their mechanics and knowing which bit to use on what horse takes time and practice, just like everything else associated with becoming a good horseman.

Return To Articles....